Successful Farming Magazine's Engine Man, Ray Bohacz, provide advise on roller chain maintenance
Successful Farming Engine Man Ray Bohacz has engine grease and field dirt under his fingernails from a life spent repairing vehicles and running a farm. When he's not busy in the shop, he's working on maintenance articles and videos for Successful Farming magazine and answering questions from readers. The following is a letter Bohacz received from Sid Peterson: Sharp Top Roller Chain
What do you recommend for roller chain maintenance? Is it OK to brush oil on them? Or will the oil wash out the grease between the pin and roller in a new chain? Does oil attract dirt and dust and cause more wear? Is an aerosol chain lube better than oil? How do you know when it's time to replace a chain?
Response from the Engine Man: Back in the old days, my dad used motor oil in a can with a brush to lubricate a chain. But then he also washed the shop floor as well as parts with gasoline! Thus, being from The Depression he made do with what he had. Today we enjoy many advanced products and chemistry so though the old ways were not bad, there are often better ones now.
To fully answer your question would depend on the use of the chain. For example, a chain saw blade though not a load carrying unit is lubricated with a heavy oil but a drive chain on a manure spreader is not, it uses a special chain lubricant. I have New Holland equipment and I use their brand chain protector and lubricant in a spray can.
For a working chain on the farm, I like to use a manufacturer recommend chain lubricant since it has the proper chemical properties and will collect minimal dust, dirt and debris. If I need to use the machine and I was out of that product, I would first spray the chain with a good quality clear silicone and then lightly brush on a thin oil but not penetrating oil (that will actually wash away any lubricant). The world today is complicated and only the manufacturer truly knows the need for that chain drive since they are privy to the material and construction that we cannot see with the naked eye.
In regard to chain wear, it too depends on the load and use. The first indicator is extreme stretch. Many chains stretch more than they wear and if a link cannot be removed then the chain needs to be replaced if there is no more adjustment left. You need to study the rollers for concentricity, the links for tightness and the guide pin for uneven wear and its depth into the track or drive gear(s). Since most chains will wear uniformly, it is best to see what a new one looks like so that you can eyeball the wear on an in-service piece. Often like gray hair, uniform wear sneaks up and it is easily missed since the chain all looks the same.
Do you have a maintenance question? Email Ray Bohacz at SFEngineman@Agriculture.com.
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